Volcanic activity continues to shape Iceland’s landscape as it has done throughout its history. During eruptions, magma is ejected from beneath the crust and in its molten state flows under the influence of gravity. It fills valleys, has the potential to engulf settlements and spills out into the ocean.
Lava flows during eruptions are dramatic indicators of the earth’s power, but the rocky terrain they form is a lasting reminder. They vary considerably in appearance, determined by factors such as the existing terrain, their mineral composition, the degree of alkalinity or acidity and the viscosity of their flows.
The more fluid they are, the further they flow before cooling and solidifying. Lava fields are so called because they fill relatively flat areas, enabling the molten rock to spill out and fill large spaces. As a result some lava fields are easily accessible, and you’ll often see evidence of past lava flows beside roads as you tour Iceland.
Wherever you see them, lava fields are sure to be a highlight of your trip. Those on the Reykjanes peninsula are especially convenient to visit due to their proximity to Keflavík Airport and to Reykjavik. You can see them at any time of year, weather permitting, so let’s take a look at what it’s like to explore the lava fields of Reykjanes in winter.
Where to find lava fields in Reykjanes
Lava fields are never very far away in the Reykjanes peninsula. Some of the most rewarding for visitors are:
- Eldvörp
The lava field at Eldvörp was created in the 13th century; between 1210 and 1240, in an event now referred to as the Reykjanes Fires, lava flowed over a significant area, punctuated by scoria and spatter cones. It’s a magnificent sight. While there’s no winter service on the gravel track, it’s possible to hike in from a little further away.
- Stampar
Stampar is more easily accessible, with parking just off Route 425 a few minutes’ drive south of Keflavik Airport. The craters you see here were formed during two separate periods, the youngest at the same time as Eldvörp and the older ones 1800 to 2000 years ago. Follow the Hundred Crater Trail which passes through the Stampar lava field; highlights include pāhoehoe lava and a row of craters.
- Fagradalsfjall
This lava field, located east of Grindavik, is much newer. Lava began to flow in March 2021 and although this eruption is ongoing, the site of the first phases of the eruption is safe to visit. It’s a long hike in comparison to the areas we’ve mentioned further west, but the blackened scar of the lava that so recently flowed through this valley is an impressive site when viewed from higher ground.
Protecting a fragile environment and staying safe
It’s important for any visitor to the lava fields of the Reykjanes peninsula to appreciate the fragile nature of the landscape they find themselves in. This might look like robust rocky terrain, but in fact the ecosystem is easily impacted and damage can be long-lasting. Treating this kind of place with respect helps conserve it for others.
The mosses and lichens that grow over older lava are easily destroyed by a casual, thoughtless footprint. On newer lava fields there’s often no way of knowing whether the blackened crust is thick or thin – falling through would be catastrophic and so it’s never a good idea to walk on such surfaces even if they appear to have cooled.
Why low season is a great time to visit the lava fields of Reykjanes
After snow falls or when ice covers the ground, the contrast between this wintry whiteness and the charcoal greys and blacks of the lava fields is a remarkable one. There’s an extraordinary quality to such a monochromatic scene, from the desiccated and cracked surfaces to the ripples and folds of cooled lava flows.
As time passes, mosses and lichens begin to colonise the lava fields, leaving patches of ochre and green to stand out on the dark ground. Mineral deposits also inject colour, such as the yellow stains that indicate the presence of sulphur and the reddish tints that come from concentrations of iron oxide.
It’s a privilege to visit, but in winter there are fewer crowds. You’ll be acutely aware of how special this place is when you don’t have to share the view with many others. The feeling of solitude and isolation emphasises that although we can try to tame nature, we can never do so indefinitely.
Personal safety in the lava fields of the Reykjanes peninsula in winter
When visiting in winter, it’s vital to stay abreast of weather conditions as they can be extreme and change rapidly. Winter driving isn’t for everyone, but there are many possibilities to take tours should you prefer not to be behind the wheel yourself. When hiking in winter, take no chances; notify someone of your plans, tread cautiously and be well-prepared when it comes to provisions.
However, snow and ice can camouflage the unevenness of the terrain, so if you’re hiking in a lava field in winter be sure to always stick to the marked trail. As lava cools, it can leave sharp and gnarly lumps – you won’t want to take a tumble and fall onto one. Make sure you are well-equipped, with hiking boots that have a thick tread and sufficient ankle support. You might also find walking poles are helpful to give you additional stability as you hike.
Warm clothing is another must. Make sure that your extremities are protected from the cold; hat, gloves and scarf or snood are essential gear. Thermal base layers and water- and windproof outer layers will help keep out the elements if the weather turns inclement while you are outside.
Witness the magical aurora borealis over Reykjanes’ lava fields
Darkness falls early in winter and with it, there’s a chance of something even more special over the lava fields of Reykjanes. The Northern Lights are a magical sight wherever they show up, but amidst the drama of a lava field they’re even more extraordinary. The curtains and ribbons of green, purple and red pop against the inky black sky and the dark ground beneath it.
We’re currently experiencing what scientists refer to as the solar maximum, when the 11 year solar cycle reaches its zenith. This means we can expect to see some exceptionally strong geomagnetic storms and auroral activity until the nights begin to shorten again in the spring. The colours of the Northern Lights are often more intense during the solar maximum and the displays longer-lasting.
While you might catch sight of the Northern Lights at mid-latitudes, it’s still worth heading nearer to the Arctic. The displays are far more impressive further north, making it worth travelling to places like Iceland’s Reykjanes peninsula. There are no guarantees, of course, as the aurora is notoriously fickle, but as the saying goes, “you have to be in it to win it”.
Northern Lights or not, the lava fields of the Reykjanes peninsula are a delight in winter. If you’re keen to avoid peak season crowds, why not plan your Iceland itinerary for the colder months and make time in your schedule to explore this beautiful and sometimes overlooked part of the country?